Chilas | Wrestling 4

The arena was not an arena at all but a flattened courtyard between two mud-brick houses, its boundary chalked and watched by the mountain. Spectators ranged from stooped grandmothers to teenage girls with braids swinging like metronomes. Boys climbed acacia trees for a better view. An old radio sat on a stone, broadcasting regional records and songs that folded into the moment like comfortable blankets.